Broderie
Anglaise & Patchwork
The love affair that we
are having with romantic smocks, dresses and tunics is set
to continue and this trend needs to be fed with fine
gauze, lightweight cottons and feminine and antiquated
prints. At
the show I saw a beautiful patchwork in squares of crochet
and plain poplin by MAILLES A DEUX (France).
There was an air of antiquity in the scallop-edged
broderie anglaise cotton by FTF (France) with the
addition of a brown/taupe print of floral and lace.
Another patchwork but this time in squares of
different broderie anglaise patterns from TISSAGES JEAN
PASSOT (France) was really beautiful! |
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PRINTS
& PATTERNS
Top
of the list are rose prints that look especially good on
‘tea-stained’ grounds with the florals picked out in
delicate pink or in shades of brown that give an
antiquated air to the designs.
GROUPE JCR (France) displayed a tiny
spot/floral and lace print ordered into stripes and
separated with zig-zag lines in shades of soft browns –
a great spin on patchwork!
Tie prints were on show in the menswear section,
but I feel they have a place in womenswear too, KBC
(Germany) have some simple but effective patterns, my
favourite coloured up into shades of brown and tan.
A simple idea but very effective was the delicate organza
with tiny pink/red rosebuds by JUAN BOLUDA (Spain).
In a similar vein FORESTYLE – SAINT-YS
(France) showed a red rose on chiffon.
Cherubs and fleur-de-lis prints in a baroque style
from MODAPRINT (France) and CHAINE ET TRAME
(France) had a pretty brown floral on white linen. Seersucker looks lovely and fresh in stripes and especially
pretty in the little rose print I saw at PIERRE ROCLE
(France).
I spoke to Johnathan Garber at CHAINE ET TRAME
(France), who told me that animal, lace and rose prints
are popular and (not surprisingly) everyone is showing
interest in their new line of small gilded-brocades.
Another winning fabric for this company is the
cross-hatch lightweight denim in pastel colours – a
great summer staple!
LIBERTY
(England) are showing some fresh prints on silk in pretty
‘fan’ and ‘angled-block’ designs, I’m not used
to seeing modern prints from Liberty and I think it looks
great!
Liberty of course holds immense archives of prints
dating back hundreds of years with designs by the likes of
William Morris.
The fan design ‘Victor’ that I liked so much
came form an early 20th Century pattern
re-worked for the S/S 2003 collection.
Another favourite of mine is the ‘Iced Gem’
print with swirly florals ordered into circles - very
pretty!
Hot-at-the-moment
blouse-weight leopard and tiger prints are available from GROUPE
JCR (France), ERCEA INTERNATIONAL (France) and CHAINE
ET TRAME (France). |
Denim
& Linen
TEXAPEL
(Italy) have some of the most innovative fabrics around at
the moment, I spoke briefly to Marco Bellini about these
hot fabrics. One
of these innovations is the antique-leather-look denim
that in its raw state doesn’t look like much, but after
a wash treatment becomes distressed like aged leather.
Customers either buy it raw and garment-wash or get
it delivered pre-washed.
Marco tells me that he is selling lightweight
versions of this for summer and also lots of jacquard
patterned denim in gold and sky-blue.
LEGLER (Italy) showed a beautiful white denim woven
with indigo for a dirty-white twill effect which is great
for jeans, coats and dresses.
OMNIAPIEGA (Italy) who specialize in
printing and pleating techniques showed peeling-snake
printed denim and distressed gold and silver foil prints
and also rubber printing onto knitwear.
AR.TE.CA (Italy) showed some excellent
silver-metallic coated linens with the crumpled look that
you only seem to get with linen.
EMILE LAMOURET (France) has a natural brown
linen with delicate pink embroidered roses,and WITTAMER
HENRIST (Belgium) has x-dye linens in beautiful
whitened brights. Striped
linen in deckchair stripes of turq/blue and beige with a
subtle narrow red stripe looked great by TEXOTOP
(France). If
you are after the ultimate in crumpled fabrics you should
try the paper-fabric by AR.TE.CA (Italy). |
Brocade
& Jacquard
Although I have mentioned jacquard and
brocade fabrics already, I must mention another two
sources: T.B.M. SPA (Italy) who showed gold
brocades and LA SEDERA (Spain) who showed a
metallic-tinged jacquard with a long-stemmed floral
pattern. |
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Stripes & Textures
Frayed
edges are nothing new but frayed stripes look fab at
the hands of FURPILE MODA (Italy), who showed a
white cotton with converging vertical and diagonal
lines of frayed threads – fab for blouses and
shirts! LEATHERTEX (Italy) also had a frayed pinstripe version
too! I
imagine that these fabrics start life as pinstripes
that are brushed into a frayed state...
Woven stripes came in two camps, either bold or washed
and delicate FOGLIERINI (France) had a bold
ribbon-effect stripe in green/blue red and yellow and
I saw a beautiful irregular-striped lightweight cotton
from MAS MOLAS (Spain), - perfect for shirts
and blouses. |
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Jersey
For
all those soft peasant tops and dresses I found the
perfect jersey that was cunningly pleated to resemble a
crinkle fabric with bands of shirring elastic FTF
(France). SILANCO
(Italy) have a striped jersey in shades of pink through to
red with an elasticated stitch in the back to hold the
gathered bands in place.
FOLGAROLAS TEXTIL (Spain) showed a pretty
delicate knit in khaki with a zig-zag pattern in shades of
russet.
I’m not sure if it was down to the fab colourations but
a couple of tie-dyes really stood out: one was a bright
green ultra-soft fleece with a deep green random pattern
by TISSAGES DE L’AIGLE (France) and the other was
a tiny red/pink pattern with sharp lines that came in
light cotton or jersey by DIVINO TEXTILE (France).
FJ BARANGE (France) also showed a tie-dye
too, but this time on a butter-soft sueded jersey – pure
heaven, but the pièce de résistance wasn’t jersey but
a cotton poplin in a dirty-brown blurred tie-dye with a
bright batik rainbow-colour flower by TISSAGES JEAN
PASSOT (France).
With a spin on the camouflage prints of past seasons I saw
a tactile version for S/S 2003.
Imagine a two-colour bonded jersey but with a
difference. I’m
no expert, but this fabric looked as though the bonding is
applied in patches and then the lighter surface fabric
torn away leaving in effect a tactile camouflage pattern.
I saw some great tone-on-tone effects and also some
awful colour combinations side-by-side at EUROSI
(Italy), who also used chiffon with the patches held by
lines of wavy stitching. |
Trims & Fastenings
Perspex and
rubber buttons look set to be hot for S/S 2003 and CREPIN-PETIT
(France) has square-shaped clear Perspex buttons that look
very fresh and new.
I
met André Bitard at YKK (France) who has a fab new
tape fastening called ‘Z-NAP’; a new development that
I thought could have great possibilities.
He told me that the idea started with lingerie in
mind but customers can see much more potential.
Judging by all the interest at the YKK stand I
think they have hit on their hands! |
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SATAB
(France), a great resource for new ribbons, has all the
ribbons and elastics in prints, plains and stripes that
you can imagine. ALPHA
BIAIS (France) showed a lovely 2” gro-grain striped
ribbon and one from JULIEN FAURE (France) in
pink/yellow and green was a very pretty combination.
J BRACQ (France) has a very pretty elasticated trim
made of tiny sequins with ruffled organza trim edges at
either side - great to trim jersey!
Dawn
C. L. Pedersen
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CONTACTS:
www.tissupremier.com
AR.TE.CA – paola.difreesco@libero.it
Chaine et Trame – patanlet@chaine-et-trame.fr
Crepin-Petit – www.crepin-petit.com
Alpha Biais – www.tissupremier.com
Divino Textile – claude.zribi@divino-textile.com
Emile Lamouret – emilelamouret@wanadoo.fr
Ercea International – xfabre@ercea.com
Eurosi – www.eurosi.it
FJ Barange – c.farel@online.fr
Foglierini SA – www.foglierini.fr
Folgarolas Textil – www.folgarolas.com
Forestyle
– Saint-YS – martine_desposito@hotmail.com
FTF (by Nodis) – contact@ftf.fr
Furpile Moda Spa – donatella.moda@furpile.it
J Bracq – www.jeanbracq.com
JCR Groupe SA – www.jcr.fr
Juan Boluda – juanboludasa@infonegocio.com
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Julien
Faure – jucatex@logiccontrol.es
KBC – antonius.schmid@kbc.de
Leathertex – sonia.pazi@leathertex.it
Legler SPA – www.legler.it
Liberty – aclaire@liberty.co.uk
Mailles a Deux – d.kos@libertysurf.fr
Mas Molas – jmtaylor@masmolas.com
Modaprint- Tex’One – lmartinez@chamatex.fr
Omniapiega – www.omniapiega.it
Pierre Rocle SA – www.rocle-tissus.com
La Sedera – xgimenez@lasedera.com
Satab – www.satab.com
Silanco Spa – www.silanco.com
T.B.M. SPA – comest@tbm-spa.it
Texotop – texotop@clubinternet.fr
Tissages de l’aigle – tissagesdelaigle@gofornet.com
Tissages Jean Passot – tissages@passot.fr
YKK – www.ykk.com
Wittamer
– Henrist – wittamer@wittamer-henrist.be |
