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Tissu
Premier, 4-5 September 2002, Lille Grand Palais, Lille, France
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FABRIC
HIGHLIGHTS @ TISSU PREMIER
by Dawn C. L. Pedersen, Editor-in-Chief.
Hot
new fabrics for A/W 2003/4!
Fabrics at this season’s show were a mixture of velvety
surfaces and interesting texture, still the fabrics that
stood out were those that appeared handworked, antiquated or
had a natural element.
It was impossible not to touch these fabrics as the
eye is often deceived by modern technology - everything is
not always as it seems... Here is our hand-picked selection of fabrics that shone at
this season’s show.
TISSU
PREMIER - www.tissupremier.com
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PROCESS
PRINTS
I spoke to Jean Francoise Bruley, director of DGE
Creation, who showed me their extensive collection of
heat applied decorative designs.
The company works very closely with customers that
include John Galliano, Louis Vuitton and Chanel.
New designs include ‘silicone ball’ prints for
any flat surface cloth including jersey - a little more
expensive than transfer but still affordable and
definitely eye-catching.
For summer 2002 DGE produced the jagged edges to
the ERES swimwear range see photo and this season
they have worked with John Galliano to produce the
designer’s name in relief on denim with raw edges.
DGE Creation is a useful contact for anyone
requiring heat applied trim process including laser
cut-work and bonding combinations of fabric and diamante
to fabric. |
STREETWEAR
One
particular fabric caught my eye.
At a glance it resembled worn, tooled leather but
handled more like denim!
The fabric, from LEATHERTEX was actually
cotton twill printed with PVC and a resin print (in a dotty
paisley design). The
fabric is washed and the end result is a patterned fabric
with an aged finish, perfect for jeans.
Their customers are high-end streetwear producers who
demand the latest technology.
Veri Favini who is involved in new developments, told
me that last season they did very well with aged leather
processes and flocking and are constantly developing new
fabrics.
KNIT
CARPENTIER
& PREUX produce a range of guipure fabrics from
delicate polyamide designs to heavier wool and cotton.
The lacy fabric is perfect for tops and dresses and
fringed edges can be engineered to customer requirements.
They had one pretty design in a delicate lacy
patchwork of contrasting patterns finishing in a long fringe
and another heavier macramé version in grey wool. DELVINCIO
showed a pretty crochet knit in pale blue and MICHELE
LEMAIRE featured a wacky space-dyed wool trim in long
loops.
MESH
There were a couple of interesting nylon mesh
fabrics; one from VERHEES that was space-dyed and
decorated with stripes of ruched ribbon and delicate threads
with clumps of chenille and the other from ATELIER
SCARABEE who showed a mesh with narrow strips of leather
held with stitches through the centre and when you stretch
the fabric it opens to reveal the mesh beneath.
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JERSEY
FRETEX showed a soft, supple jersey – nice
quality and very stretchy.
Another very different jersey by LE DA-TEX SNC
- a delicate single knit in off-white with a woolly running
stitch embroidery in a shaky floral design in shades of
brown. AR.TE.CA
had a suede jersey with a cracked solid surface of rainbow
coloured foil and MEDIATISS featured a jersey in
patches of suede and black print creating a skin effect.
BUTTONS
& TRIMS
CREPIN
PETIT showed pretty frosted shank buttons topped with a
flat coloured top, a flat pearl two hole button in an
irregular (plectrum) shape and lots of glossy horn toggles
in interesting shapes - a great contrast against wool and
knits. BOUTONS
KOCHER had pretty engraved buttons and NEYRET FRERES
showed an iron-on appliqué with a space to thread narrow
satin ribbon through – novel idea!
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QUILTING
The quilted ‘parka’ designs by Stella McCartney
were among my favourite items for A/W 2002/3 and I did
wonder if any of the fabric companies would show anything
similar – the nearest I thought was a shiny quilt effect
by LAZZATI TESSUTI INNOVATIVI.
I saw a really fab quilted madras check covered in
intricate embroidery by BENNETT and (not a quilt but
still by Bennett) a black crepe with multi-colour sequins
applied in a clever dotty pattern.
FAUX
FUR
TEXAPEL had an eye catching shearling effect with
coloured suede patchwork on one side and fleece on the
underside and another in dusty pink suede with a patterned
fleece in a mix of grey/taupe/pink.
GEWE showed super-soft real suede in an
irregular patchwork of triangles.
PRINTS
& JACQUARD
KOMO
showed a sheer pleated crepe (shirring effect) finishing in
a wide frilled hem with a dark brown lacy paisley jacquard.
I saw a few jacquards that were worth mentioning; one
from FRETEX in turq/brown/taupe had a metallic shine,
and a heavier quality by CANTONI SATILAI in a blue/
taupe colour was attracting a lot of attention, while TBM
SOIERIES showed a lightweight changeant jacquard in gold
and aubergine. Taking
itself a little less seriously was a fun knitted jacquard in
light grey marl with a rollerblade pattern in sky blue by BUGIS
R. JERSEYS.
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