Influences for S/S 2003
This Paris show is always huge with 1100 brands divided into three groups on the three levels of Hall 7 at the Parc d’Exposition, Porte de Versailles. Atmosphere, Première Session and Mira on floor 2, By Casabo on floor 1 and Les Halles and Première Classe on floor 3 show some of the newest trends.
Richard H, P à P’s Art Director, developed the essence of this season’s show “Diptyque” which means a double sided mirror reflecting contrasts, opposition and contradiction. The diversity of products and lifestyles, an eclectic mix of the past and the future and the notion of antiquity combined with avant-garde creativity.

PRÊT À PORTER - www.pretaporter.com

GAME, SET & MATCH
Another winner from Italy. Twinset’s designer, Simona Barbieri has created a great range this season judging by the number of customers on the stand. The best sellers, according to the Commercial Director, are a pretty knit story including cropped cardigans with tiny embroidered roses, tie and dye evening dresses and a hip Peace Not War army story see right. Twinset’s version of army chic includes gold belts, embroidered flowers and printed anti-war slogans. Fabrics are soft and light, crochet cottons, twills and jerseys in a range of murky khakis and olive greens. Twinset started to develop their business in the rest of Europe and the U.S. about three years ago, and have just delivered for the first time to Fenwick of Bond Street. They will be showing in New York shortly, although there are no plans yet to present at the London shows.
info@twin-set.it

EASY EXOTICA
INDIES presence in the ready to wear market has been strong for the last ten years, and it is easy to see why. This season, Sandrine Garella, Indies’ main designer has created an extremely commercial range. Fabrics are soft crinkle cottons mixed with lycra or polyamide in a range of natural earthy tones of taupe, beige and rose. Quirky details such as bustle backs, pleating and ruching, laser cut outs, pull ties and puckered fabrics add originality to Indies’ beautifully cut garments.
Easy to wear and fabulous to look at, Indies range appeals to any age.
janet@janetthurston.co.uk

TREASURE TROVE
Caroline Doubel, sales agent for CHINE COLLECTION, told me that “this season’s range was like opening a grandmother’s old trunk and discovering the beautiful clothes hidden there”. Thijs Guillaume, Chine Collection’s designer, has created a gorgeous range of romantic feminine clothes. Swirling, long skirts in exotic prints of birds of paradise and butterflies are washed and faded in soft tones of peach, pale pink and beige. A fabulous washable suede, tie dye jacket tops off the successful denim story. Russian style embroidery adds an ethnic influence to a range of skirts, dresses and shirts. Chine Collection strives to make each item different from the next by using different trims, printing, seaming and patchwork details. The company also helps the buyer successfully merchandise the range by providing a workbook which gives clear guidelines.
MIMI CHINE, a children’s collection inspired by Guillaume’s own daughter, is a precious range of miniature versions of adult styles, to die for.
info@chinecollection.com

GIRLS WILL BE GIRLS
JULIE SUN'S wonderful collection of pretty, feminine clothes in linen, double-dyed, creased polyamide and doubled tulle is not to be taken lightly.
Her gorgeous linen range includes fitted dresses with puckered tulle neck and hem trims, jackets with deep fringing and hidden zippers to give added shape or a looser fit and tulle inserts on low-waisted wide legged pants which give great contrasts in texture and shade. In addition, floaty, feminine skirts, dresses, tops and trousers in striking double-dyed colour combinations with ingenious details such as twisted straps, asymmetrical hems and contrast over-locking make the range fun and easy to wear.
Not surprising that Julie pictured left has had a great show with orders pouring in from Europe and elsewhere.
ecotecpro@aol.com

NEW CLASSICS
The designers of the YU FENG range of sophisticated skirts, dresses and tops came to Paris from Taiwan two and a half years ago. Raw edges, pleated and puckered frills are used to trim wide, circular skirts and embossed leather straps cinch in the bodice of a short cocktail dress. Deep ragged hems in light chartreuse green appear ultra feminine on figure hugging black silk dresses.
Yu Feng use mostly natural fibres of silk, cotton and tulle and manage to give a new edge to classic shapes by skilfully using layers, raw edges, asymmetrical cuts, contrast linings and super-imposed fabrics.
Prices are quite high, although justified given the amount of work in each garment.
yufengparis@hotmail.com

BY CASABO reflects the concept store trend - designers who approach fashion as a lifestyle

GIMMIE FIVA
Fietje Pieters’ hand-made FIVA JEWELLERY is produced in Holland and sold mainly through clothing stores. Elaborate and rich designs are made in semi-precious stones, hand-made glass beads, freshwater pearls and crystal. Brand new collections are created twice a year and colour combinations are particularly striking. Taking inspiration from Australia, Africa and whatever she finds across the world, Fietje has developed a thriving business for original hand-made designs.
www.fiva.nl

MIRA a melting pot of “precious” current trends in accessories, childrens and womenswear. 

FINISHING TOUCHES
ROSAMUNDA'S accessories are mainly white and natural tones, giving the whole range an ethnic-primitive feel. Fascinating belts made with washed and carved stones or painted and beaten metal disks mounted on thick ropes have a hand-made, “one-off” look.
Leather bags are trimmed and merchandised to match.
www.rosamunda.it

FANTASY ISLAND
TARA JARMON'S collection this season is based around three main themes. The oriental theme is extremely strong in vivid red, cream and deep pink parachute silk, with touches of beading and embroidery, reminiscent of henna designs and flowing djellabahs. Her fresh and funky Island story complements this by picking out bright turquoise, lilac and green, and to top it all off Jarmon’s Garden prints are worked in soft natural tones.
Despite Tara Jarmon’s success both here in France and elsewhere, prices have remained stable this season - great news for buyers. 
Tel: +33 (0)1 53 38 48 20

TRICKY
TRIKITRIXA'S Parisian based designers took the inspiration for their last range from travel in Laos. Their beautiful shoes are decorated with feathers, shells, or hand-painted and hand-embroidered. Although the shoes seem very delicate, sturdy waterproof materials are used in a lot of cases. Winners include a very original range of sandals with pictures across the front, coated in transparent plastic for protection. Selfridges and Harvey Nichols are among new customers for a range of aromatherapy soled shoes & slippers, which come flat and vacuum packed in plastic see right. trikitrixa@hotmail.com

ONE-OFF
SPENCER & RUTHERFORD'S quirky Mademoiselle handbags from Australia are noted for their original one-of-a-kind styles. Watch out for beads, fur trims, tapestry and collage pictures. Mademoiselle makes a bag for every mood and outfit.
www.spencerandrutherford.com