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PREMIERE
VISION,
18-21 September 2002, Paris, France
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Premiere Vision autumn/winter 2003/4
by
Dawn C. L. Pedersen, Editor-in-Chief.
This major exhibition brings together Premiere Vision the fabric show, Mod'Amont for trims and Indigo for surface pattern and creative design. The show is unparalleled in Europe, attracting visitors with the promise of new developments and trend information.
PREMIERE VISION - www.premierevision.fr
INDIGO - www.indigo.tm.fr
MODAMONT - www.modamont.net
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PREMIERE VISION fabric exhibition
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A trend
area at Premiere Vision.
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SILKY
GIRANI is a family run Italian business that produces jacquard and special finishes onto silk or silk blends. I was drawn onto the stand by one fabric from the trend area; imagine a gunmetal silk of medium weight with a subtle sheen, the jacquard implying a hand-stitched embroidery and the surface rippled. The quality was wonderful and had lots of appeal, great for simple skirts and Prada-style jackets.
I could list many top designers that have worked with this company but if I mention two, Donna Karan and Giorgio Armani you get a feel for the high quality of the fabrics on offer. Special attention is paid to finishing and it's these specialist techniques which set Girani apart. |
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As the name may suggest
SARIS is in the business of producing fabrics with a silky handle: crepe de Chine, crepe georgette and satin velours to name just a few. I can recommend two from the range, one a wide vertical stripe in shades of pink, purple and jade, all shot through with aqua for a washed appearance. The stripes are divided by a narrow strip of pale aqua in slubby cotton, the combination of colour and texture is lovely and the fabric perfect for blouses and dresses. The other fabric was a crepe chiffon in a multi-coloured wash of rich purples and emerald, I could imagine a fabulous batwing top or bias-cut dress in this quality.
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I fell in love with a powdery chiffon in two layers held together by black embroidered circles and spidery stars running in a diagonal squared pattern. The fabric is by
ZIBETTI who corner the market in embroidered silky qualities. I spoke to Madame Zibetti who also showed me a
camel-coloured wool felt with black embroidered flowers softened by brushing, a fabulous quality for a winter coat!
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FURRY
NIPPON HIGH PILE were one of the few Japanese exhibitors invited to show at Premiere Vision this season. There was a rigorous screening process involved to select from the many companies from the Far East and Asia that applied to exhibit. Only companies with a high fashion element were chosen.
Nippon produce knitted and woven faux fur with a difference. Lily Hang, the agent for the USA, showed me a long haired fur with a multi-coloured patch print that had been biologically washed to create a matted vintage effect. A perfect fabric for a bomber or sleeveless jacket and to prove this they had a similar fur made into a cute short jacket by Comme des Garcons on the stand. Not satisfied with the range of faux furs they also do woven Prince of Wales checks with furry patterns on the surface. At first I thought the pattern must be flocked but the pile was too thick - Nippon achieve this through a burn-out technique. Another fabric was a fine knit in two layers of contrasting colours held together through a spaced jacquard pattern. A secret process is then involved that transforms the top layer into a matted mess full of holes and loops - totally weird but compelling all the same. I can imagine this fabric would look really good as the front panel of a sweater with a ribbed trim.
In the fur section I found a long-haired faux fur with a blue denim reverse by Italian company
FRANCESCHINI - great for casual jackets and coats.
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Fabric
selections
for A/W 2003/4.
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CHEEKY
The range from CALZEAT of SCOTLAND is traditional in appearance, with mohair and wool plaids in uninspiring colourations. New customers had been drawn to the stand from the trend area on the strength of one fabric. When I first spotted the traditional wool plaid with a large hot-pink floral pattern I imagined the pink was a dense print or a bright flock, but the reverse side of the fabric shows a different story. The fabric is a woven plaid but the hot pink design is a jacquard! I would love to see a mini skirt in this fabric and a long coat to match with a border of pink flowers. This technique, and this fabric in particular had brought a flood of people onto the stand demanding to see the bright "print". It looks as though this old family-run business that started life as a jacquard weaver will be rushed off its feet this season!
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I saw another plaid by
RICAMIFICIO VANONI in blue and grey with orange and red highlights with an interesting treatment; denim strips were applied to the surface with a zig-zag stitch in a diagonal squared pattern. The fabric had instant appeal and would look equally good in a micro-mini or a knee length skirt.
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MOD'AMONT trims and applied decoration
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STRINGY
I was intrigued as to the use for the small T-shaped diamante links that I saw on the
MODA PIERRE stand. Apparently these are made for the back of G-strings, the diamante peeping through on low-cut jeans. Great idea, and the novelty value is enormous. But enough about knickers, this company also produces chains, links and beaded and bejewelled necklace pieces for necklines and low-cut backs.
In the past this type of trim was used exclusively in
eveningwear, now it has a much wider appeal!
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Beaded
'necklace' trim by Moda Pierre. |
SCARY
I was drawn onto the DORLET stand by a great storyboard with skulls as the main attraction. These were in a gunmetal finish with pierced rings through eye sockets, which sounds horrible but looked great and perfect for a pseudo Hell's Angel collection. The company is based in Meaux with production in Germany, USA and Italy. They not only supply high-end customers such as Christian Lacroix and Kenzo with speciality trims but also mass producers Lee Cooper Jeans with rivets and fastenings.
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PARTY
MEDIAC-STEPHANOISE are a trimmings company split down the middle, Mediac is the brand for motif and appliqués and Stephanoise the name behind the ribbon range. From the latter I chose a 1cm black satin ribbon that also came in denim with a delicate silver chain running along one edge in loops. I could imagine lots of ways to use this along seams or hemlines - a great party trim. The other trim, again from Stephanoise was a mock suede edging with eyelets that was threaded with suede ribbon for laced fastenings.
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FRINGY
I knew that somewhere I'd find the trim that we featured in the last retail report; a really fab leather strip pierced with rings. We reported on this from Paris where we found the trim on Chloe's jeans and jersey ranges. I was thrilled to track down the company at Premiere Vision that supplied it to Chloe.
TOURNEROCHE started life as a belt manufacturer and the range has grown from strength to strength. I saw belt buckles covered in intricate plaited leather, very long fringes with twisted sections, fur patches and pompoms and then simple tooled or stitched leather belts and toggles. For those of you who need a less authentic trim most of the range is also available in synthetic fabrics.
Pierced
rings, eyelets and long fringing
in peppermint green suede
by Tourneroche.
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INDIGO - exhibition of creative textile design
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TECHY
An American company THE STYLE COUNCIL had a busy stand at the show and appeared to be generating a lot of business. They produce original prints and are able to take projects through from concept to completion by supplying original ideas and finished sample lengths. I spoke to Christian Winicki who is involved in marketing and he told me about a new development within the company. Soon the designs will be available to buy on line with potential customers (in the USA only) getting access through a password system for a limited time to look through and buy from the newest collection - sounds like a great idea. Go to the website to find out more about this design service.
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WACKY
The stand at BREWSTER was lively with a rail of inspirational thrift shop finds in wacky prints. Fiona Layfield, the art director, guided me through some of the collection that included interesting mixtures of textured knits, embroideries and a vibrant prints collection with abstract block printed paisleys and florals with a retro feel.
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CONTROVERSY
I couldn't help noticing the COMMERCIAL UNDERGROUND stand displaying T-shirts with risqué prints. I spoke to Nino Nou who told me that the company is split down the middle with a graphic design area that takes commissions for album covers, videos, websites and corporate identities and their own label T-shirts sold through London stores such as Liberty, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, American Retro and Home. The prints for the T-shirt range are silhouettes of pole dancers, suggestively positioned bodies and other controversial or thought provoking images. The creative team at Commercial Underground incorporates a personal touch to all their projects. They have labelled their unique approach 'information emotion'. Find out
more...
EDGY
PEAGREEN had a great range of eye-catching prints that were selling as fast as they could show them. I saw a detailed fairytale print, surfer-style bordered florals mixed with stripes, computer graphic patterns, spirograph designs and mixtures of pretty florals with bold numbers. The range covers men's, women's and childrenswear and their unique use of colour adds a retro edge to these fresh prints.
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Jessica
from the band 'Liberty X' wearing pole-dancer vest by
Commercial Underground.
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MORE...
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Beautiful fabrics for coats include HAYAZEN TEXTILE'S patterned tweed - a geometric patchwork of black/brown and brown/black tweed with sections of open-worked beige.
ROSATI showed a brown wool quality in a heavy basket weave with thick woolly stitched squares in beige - great texture and
colour.
Corduroy still has great appeal with new thicker piles and wider
wales.
DUCA VISCONTI have these wider versions and so do PONTOGLIO. I even saw a clever printed cord by
MODATEX, the thick grey cord was printed in a large floral design and the outline picked out in a shiny rubber print, I'd love to see a trench coat in this quality.
In the denim area I saw a leafy patterned jacquard by CLERPREM that had been printed in a greyed pink and then washed. The effect was quite stunning as it looked vintage and I could imagine it in a great waistcoat or jacket.
TESSILIDEA had a quilting in a lightweight dull cotton, which was held to the wadding with a satin stitch in a shiny black wavy floral pattern - just what you need for a short bomber jacket or loose parka with knitted trim.
I saw a 'gothic' lace, quite heavy with a shiny glazed surface in a wavy vertical pattern by
FORSTER WILLI, great for adding texture and experimenting with layers.
Metallics shone at the show too, some were merely threads adding a subtle highlight and others like the brocades by
RICAMIFICO VANONI were full of light and rich colour.
In the jersey area FANS GRUPPO FEDORA displayed a loose knit with a honeycomb pattern of tubular knitting snaking its way over the surface and
FIERATEX had supple jersey quality with a border of engineered holes in a 'fan' pattern in a soft cameo
colour.
If you are looking for quality suitings then go no further than
LINEAQUATTRO who have a beautiful herringbone quality in black/beige/cream that would look perfect in trousers and jackets. Maybe you need something a little more hi-tech, if so then
PAYLANA has thermal/climate control pinstriped
suitings.
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